Fruit and Vegetable Trivia
(http://www.farmissues.com/pages/factsFruitsAndVegetables.php)

• The Yukon Gold potato was developed at the University of Guelph in Ontario, Canada
• The first Macintosh apple tree was discovered in Ontario, Canada in 1811
• One-third pound stalk of broccoli has more vitamin C than 204 apples
• The first fruit eaten on the moon was a peach
• Carrots were first grown as a medicine
• Carrots can be orange, white, yellow or purple
• Blueberries have more anti-oxidants than any other fruit or vegetable
• Hippocrates noted the medicinal properties of lettuce in 430BC
• Canada is the world's largest producer of wild blueberries
• Canadians have developed biodegradable packaging for fruits and vegetables which lasts for 14 days in the environment

Vegetables: Fun Facts

(http://www.factmonster.com/ipka/A0781697.html)

• Bell peppers are usually sold green, but they can also be red, purple or yellow.
• Tomatoes are very high in the carotenoid Lycopene; eating foods with carotenoids can lower your risk of cancer.
• Other vegetables high in carotenoids are carrots, spinach, sweet potatoes, and collard greens.
• Most of the nutrients in a potato reside just below the skin layer.
• A horn worm can eat an entire tomato plant by itself in one day!
• In the United States, more tomatoes are consumed than any other single fruit or vegetable!
• California produces almost all of the broccoli sold in the United States.
• White potatoes were first cultivated by local Indians in the Andes Mountains of South America.
• Yams and sweet potatoes are not the same thing!
• A baked potato (with skin) is a good source of dietary fiber (4 grams).
• Actually a fruit, it took a ruling by the Supreme Court in 1893 to make the tomato a vegetable.
• Potatoes first appeared in Europe in 1586; they made it to North America in 1719.
• The potato disease “Late Blight” was the principal cause of the Irish Potato Famine, which killed a half million people.
• It is recommended that you eat five servings of fruit or vegetables a day. A serving equals one-half cup.

List of Easy to Grow Vegetables 

(http://www.kiddiegardens.com/easy_to_grow_vegetables.html)

1. Cress. This must be the absolutely most easy vegetable to grow. Usually grown indoors in flat containers with just some damp kitchen towel or blotting paper, you simply cannot go wrong. Cress, like mustard, grows very quickly and is the ideal starting place for young children. For added novelty, consider growing Cress Eggmen!
2. Lettuce. Again, lettuce can be grown inside or out, in containers or in the vegetable patch. There are lots of different varieties to chose from. Follow the advice ongrowing lettuce and to begin with, try a smaller lettuce which grows quickly.
3. Radishes. These are also a must on your list of starter vegetables. They prefer a damper or colder climate, and need very little maintenance - simply thin them out sufficiently to ensure there is enough space for the bulbs to develop. Radishes are often grown together with carrots, as the seedlings pop up quickly, acting as row markers, and also help to break down the surface for the weaker carrot seedlings to come through. See the different types and all about growing radishes.
4. Swiss Chard. Like spinach, chard is not fussy about the ground and needs almost no care apart from thinning out and weeding to begin with. Chard also looks nice, especially the variety with red stems, and both the leaf and stem can be eaten. In many climates, chard will overwinter quite cheerfully. Children who don't like spinach, will often take to chard instead.
5. Green Beans. Try the bush types for ease of cultivation, though runner beans do offer more yield in the same space (because they grow upwards!) and you can experiment with growing the beans over arches, creating a tunnel of runner beans through which the children can walk or make a bean teepee!
6. Carrots. Providing you keep to a few simple rules, growing carrots is easy. They prefer a cooler climate and can be planted as soon as the frost is past and the ground is workable.
7. Potatoes. Though often not considered to be an easy to grow vegetable, potatoes actually are as long as they are banked up and watered frequently. You can grow potatoes in containers which means they don't take up much space for a decent crop.
8. Spinach. The best type of spinach to go for is spinach beet (which is not really a 'true' spinach at all) as it is less likely to bolt. Spinach prefers cooler climates so is ideal planted in early spring or autumn (check the variety on the seed packet), and like chard, leaves can be picked off and used and the plant will just keep on growing.
9. Onions. Your best bet is to plant onion sets (miniature onions) rather than onion seeds to begin with. They are easy for younger children to handle and need almost no maintenance apart from initial weeding. Plant radishes together with the onions to mark out the rows, as they sprout faster. Onions like to be planted early on in the season, but there are also varieties which can be planted in late summer or early autumn for a winter or spring crop.
10. Beetroot. Like spinach, kids either love it or hate it, but it is one of the easiest vegetables to grow. It can be planted as soon as the frost is over and just requires damp ground to germinate.

In warm climates it is also easy to grow vegetables directly outdoors which in cooler climates may benefit from being started off indoors or in a greenhouse and then being transplanted later on when the weather has warmed up a bit. These are:

• Courgettes (Zucchini). Once established, courgettes really do look after themselves. They need a lot of water and can be prone to the same virus as cucumbers, so plant these two in different areas of the garden. Courgette flowers are also edible and considered a delicacy!
• Tomatoes. Tomatoes are easy to grow as long as the leaves do not get too wet. They need staking (usually with bamboo canes) or can be grown upside down! In cooler, wetter climates they do better indoors or in greenhouses but can be successful if planted along a south-facing wall and given some protecting in the form of a tomato frame. Choose cherry tomatoes as these are sweeter.
• Cucumbers. Cucumbers love climbing, so need some form of frame to grow along or can be planted by a fence - like tomatoes, they can also be grown upside down! In cooler climates, they do best indoors or in the greenhouse.
• Pumpkins. Pumpkins are a must for children! Pumpkins love hot summers and are well worth growing just for their sheer interest. The plants need lots of space and trailing kinds will grow along fences or trellis. Once established, they require little maintenance apart from plenty of water.

Rhubarb is another vegetable which is easy to grow and has the added benefit of coming up and providing tasty produce year after year. Check out Savor the Rhubarb for growing advice, recipies and just about everything you could ever wish to know about this very versatile plant!

Your Edible Garden

(http://www.sunset.com/garden/garden-basics/sowing-seeds-00400000014973/)

How to plant seeds:

Many annuals, wildflowers, and vegetables can be seeded directly in the garden, either broadcast over a bed to give a planted-by-Nature look or sown in the traditional rows of a vegetable or cutting garden.

Many other plants, however, are best raised from seed sown in containers. These include slow-growing perennials, plants with expensive or very fine seed, and warm-season vegetables and annuals that you want to start when the garden soil is still too cold and wet for in-ground planting.

Flowers and vegetables to direct-sow

Certain easy-to-grow plants do best when sown directly in the garden, because they have delicate root systems or taproots that make successful transplantation from containers difficult.

Such plants include:

• sunflower (Helianthus)
• sweet pea (Lathyrus)
• love-in-a-mist (Nigella)
• nasturtium (Tropaeolum)
• beans
• carrots
• corn
• peas
• radishes

Whether you're sowing a wildflower mixture or several kinds of annuals for a showy border, start by preparing the soil. Remove weeds, then loosen the soil and work in amendments with a spading fork, shovel, or rototiller.

Add a complete fertilizer in the amount directed on the label. Finally, smooth the soil with a rake.

If rain doesn't do the job for you, moisten the bed thoroughly a few days before you intend to plant. At sowing time, the soil should be moist but not soggy.

Planting in rows

To grow vegetables or annuals in rows, prepare the soil (see video), but do not dig in fertilizer; it will be applied later.

Next, make furrows for the seeds, following the packet instructions for depth of furrows and spacing between them. If possible, lay out the rows in a north-south direction, so that both sides will receive an equal amount of sunlight during the day.

Form the furrows with a hoe, rake, or stick; for perfectly straight rows, use a board or taut string as a guide, as shown at right. Now dig two furrows alongside each seed furrow--one on either side, each 2 inches away from and 1 inch deeper than the seed furrow.

Apply fertilizer in these furrows, following label recommendations for amount of fertilizer per foot of row. This technique puts the fertilizer where plant roots can best use it.

Sow seeds evenly, spacing them as the packet directs. You can tear off a small corner of the packet and tap the seeds out as you move along, or pour a small quantity of seed into your palm and scatter pinches of seed as evenly as possible. Larger seeds, such as beans, can be placed individually by hand.

Water the furrows with a fine spray; then keep the soil surface moist but not dripping wet until the seeds sprout. Thin overcrowded seedlings while they're still small; if you wait too long to thin, the plants will develop poorly, and you'll have a harder time removing an individual plant without disturbing those around it.

Buying, storing, and broadcasting seeds

Be sure the seeds you buy are fresh; they should be dated for the current year. For many plants, seed may be sold in three different forms: loose, pelletized, and in tapes. Loose seeds, traditionally sold in packets, are familiar to all gardeners. Pelletized seeds, also sold in packets, are individually coated (like small pills) to make handling and proper spacing easier. Seed tapes are strips of biodegradable paper with seeds embedded in them, properly spaced for growing to maturity. You just unroll the tape in a prepared furrow and cover it with soil.

Store extra seeds in an airtight jar or other container in a cool, dry place. With proper storage, many kinds of seeds remain viable for a year, and some stay good for several years.

Broadcasting seeds in a prepared bed

1. For a patterned planting, outline the areas for each kind of seed with gypsum, flour, or stakes and string. You may want to put a label in each area.

2. To achieve a more even distribution, shake each kind of seed (or an entire wildflower seed mixture) in a covered can with several times its bulk of white sand.

3. Scatter the seed-sand mixture as evenly as possible over the bed or individual planting areas; then rake lightly, barely covering the seeds with soil. Take care not to bury them too deeply.

4. Spread a very thin layer of mulch (such as sifted compost) over the bed to help retain moisture, keep the surface from crusting, and hide the seeds from birds.

5. Water with a fine spray. Keep the soil surface barely damp until the seeds sprout; once seedlings are up, gradually decrease watering frequency.

6. When seedlings have two sets of true leaves, thin those that are too closely spaced. Transplant the thinned seedlings to fill empty spaces in the bed.

How to set out your plants:

Annuals and perennials in 4-inch nursery pots are inexpensive alternatives to bigger plants in gallon cans. And the smaller plants will catch up soon.

Before planting, amend the soil with organic matter and dunk the plant, still in its pot, into a bucket of water to soak the soil.

1. Dig a hole for each plant, making the hole about the same depth as the container and an inch or two wider.

2. Knock each plant out of its pot. Gently separate any matted roots. If roots are coiled at the bottom of the rootball, cut them off so new roots can grow.

3. Place each plant in its hole so that the rootball's top is even with the soil surface. Fill in with soil around the rootball, water with a gentle stream, then press the soil lightly to firm it.

Caring for your vegetables:

For the best possible harvest, keep your vegetables growing steadily ― without setbacks ― throughout the season.

Those started from seed sown directly in the groundusually require thinning, so that each plant will have enough space to develop properly. Thin plants when they're a few inches tall, spacing them as indicated in the descriptions here or on the seed packet.

Watering

Provide a steady supply of water from planting until harvest. Transplants need frequent watering until they're growing well; keep the soil moist but not soggy.

Rows or beds of seeds and young seedlings likewise need steady moisture, sometimes requiring sprinkling as often as two or three times a day if weather is very hot.

As transplants and seedlings grow and their roots reach deeper, you can water less often - but when you do water, be sure to moisten the entire root zone. To water your vegetable garden, you can use sprinklers, furrows, or a drip system.

Mulching

Mulching the garden conserves moisture and suppresses weed growth. An organic mulch such as straw or compost will also improve the soil's structure as it decomposes, making the top few inches looser and more crumbly.

However, because organic mulches keep the soil beneath them cool, it's best not to apply them until warm weather arrives.

A mulch of black plastic sheeting, on the other hand, helps warm the soil quickly in spring. After preparing the soil for planting, cover it with black plastic; then cut small holes where you want to sow seeds or set out plants. This tactic is especially useful for growing heat-loving crops such as melons and eggplant in regions with cool or short summers.

Fertilizing

For many vegetables, the fertilizer applied at planting time will be sufficient for the entire season.

But heavy feeders (such as corn) or those requiring a long growing season, including broccoli, cabbage, and tomatoes, may need one or two follow-up feedings.

Lightly scratch dry granular fertilizer into the soil (keep it off plant leaves), then water it in thoroughly; or use a water-soluble fertilizer according to label directions.

Weeding

Removing weeds is important, since they'll compete with vegetables for water, food, and light. As noted above, a mulch will help prevent weeds from getting started in the first place; those that do appear can usually be eliminated through hand-pulling, hoeing, or cultivating.

Whichever approach you choose, be sure to get rid of weeds before they set seed. 

Controlling pests and disease

Various pests and diseases may occasionally afflict some of your vegetables. To avert or at least minimize the damage, take the following basic steps. If you encounter a problem not discussed here, contact your Cooperative Extension Office or knowledgeable nursery personnel for help.

1. Keep the garden healthy. Plants growing in the best possible conditions are better able to resist pests and diseases.

2. Keep the garden clean. Composting or discarding spent plants and tilling the soil (especially in fall) can help you avoid trouble, since a number of insects and diseases overwinter or spend some stage of their lives on plant debris.

3. Plant resistant varieties if they're available. Many tomato hybrids, for example, are resistant both to verticillium wilt and to fusarium wilt, another disease caused by a soil-dwelling fungus. (Fusarium wilt enters plants through their roots. Lower leaves may turn yellow or appear scorched; severely infected plants wilt and die.)

4. Mix different kinds of plants. Large expanses of just one sort can encourage equally large populations of pests fond of that plant. Mixed plantings favor more kinds of insects, including those that prey on the troublemakers.

5. Rotate the location of crops from year to year to prevent the buildup of diseases and insects specific to certain plants in any one part of the garden.

6. Encourage natural controls such as toads, lizards, many birds, and beneficial insects. Avoid chemical sprays, if possible; they wipe out helpful creatures along with pests, leaving the garden vulnerable to new attack.

Information on planning a vegetable garden and growing popular vegetables from the website "USA Gardener"

(http://usagardener.com/)

Our web site offers gardeners quick and easy access to pertinent information on a large variety of vegetables, herbs, fruits and berries, with a moderately detailed flower section. 

The gardening season has begun and we have added new features to the website. The new gardening glossary is complete, and our section on plant diseases should be online shortly. Our focus is on organic gardening, including natural pest and disease control. Natural solutions to these issues will be posted on this web site.


Planning:


Planning the vegetable garden is the most important part of gardening. The size of garden, best location, plant selection are all very crucial to a successful garden. There are some basic steps to planning a garden that will bring you years of joy and fruitful harvest. 

Listed below are important considerations when planning your garden. Planting the wrong crops in the wrong place can drastically reduce yields and in some cases attract pests or initiate plant diseases. Plans should allow for crop rotation as well - growing a particular vegetable in the same spot year after year may allow certain pests to thrive and destroy your crops. Companion planting is important. A must read, is the highly rated book Carrots Love Tomatoes : Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful Gardening 

Garden Size:
The first step to consider is the size of your garden. To determine this, decide how many vegetables you want to grow for you and your family? If you have lots of room and you love to garden, a big garden may be your choice - you can always give away what you don't need. If you plan on canning or freezing, a larger garden should be considered.

At the bottom of this page is a yield chart for some of the most common vegetables - keep in mind that these figures will vary depending on your soil conditions, weather, and of course, your ability.

Make a list with the vegetables, herbs and fruits you want to grow, and how much. You will then need to determine the area required for each one (see our grow guides for row spacing, companion planting etc - links are at the top of this page).

Location:
Once you have decided what size to make your garden, you will need to select a location. If possible, Pick a spot with full sun that is not shaded by trees or buildings. If you have to plant where partial shade may effect plants, be sure to plant shade tolerant plants in that area. Lack of sun can keep some plants to moist and encourage disease, slugs and other pests. If you live in a very hot climate, this may not be an issue. Here is a list of important factors when picking your location:

• Full sun with southern exposure is the best.
• Best soil on your property - soil conditions can vary drastically on the same property.
• Avoid low areas subject to flooding and constant water saturation - too wet and root crops / plant roots will suffer.
• Avoid areas where the ground is sandy or gravel - water may drain to quickly.
• Watering supply - If your garden is 300 feet away from the closest water supply, water pressure may be an issue, as well as hoses and the size of hose required - at 300 feet, you may need 3/4" hose to provide sufficient water and pressure. If your garden is uphill from your water source, this will further reduce pressure.

Location in relation to your home is not critical. Don't think that a garden close to the house will deter deer and other animals. They will come right up to your home at night. A herb garden near the house is very handy when you need a few herbs for cooking.

Layout:
Your layout is very important. To prevent shading of other crops, you will want tall crops such as corn, sunflowers and trellis vegetables at the most northern part of the garden - successive vegetables should be laid out according to mature height with the lowest planted at the south end of the garden.

Crop rotation is important. For example, if you are planting corn, never plant a single row right across the back of the garden (see our grow guide), corn requires cross-pollination and is best planted in 3 or more rows. See diagram below.



In addition to rotation, soil nutrients and pH are important and you can save lots of work by testing the soil and matching plants to the soil test results. If the soil is the same throughout the garden, you may need to add various amendments to accomodate certian vegetables.

Container Gardening:
If you have no good soil on your property and do not wish to spend time on soil building, container gardening may be the way to go. In some cases, preferred. Container gardens offer some advantages as follows:

• Less bending over - you can make them as high as you wish - subject to design.
• You can add top quality soil.
• Less tilling which is better for soil condition.
• Row covers can be secured easier.
• Depending on design, raised beds can serve as cold frames allowing for earlier planting. A seperate cover(s) may have to built for this purpose.
• Work well on small properties when a garden in one spot may not be possible.

Approximate Yield for Vegetable Crops per 15 ft row:

Asparagus - 4.5 Lbs Bean, lima (bush) - 4 Lbs Bean, snap (bush) - 15 Lbs Beets 20 Lbs Broccoli - 11 Lbs Carrot - 20 Lbs Cabbage - 22.5 Lbs Cauliflower - 15 Lbs Chard - 11 Lbs Corn - 18 (ears) Lbs Cucumber, slicing - 21 Lbs Cucumber, pickling - 27 Lbs Garlic - 6 Lbs Eggplant - 15 Lbs Kohlrabi - 6 Lbs Lettuce, head - 7 Lbs Lettuce, leaf - 7 Lbs Muskmelon - 15 Lbs Mustard greens - 11 Lbs Okra - 16 Lbs Onion, bulb - 17 Lbs Pea - 3 Lbs Pepper, bell - 20 Lbs Potato, sweet - 30 Lbs Potato, white - 36 Lbs Spinach - 10 Lbs Squash, summer - 52 Lbs Squash, winter - 45 Lbs Tomato - 42 Lbs Turnip - 27 Lbs

Compost:


These are the magic ingredients of any garden! Without them a garden will quickly lose it's ability to produce healthy crops - if any. Knowing which of these amendments to add, and how much, is not all that difficult. if you have not done so, please read our section on soil building, paying close attention to the section "A Different Way To Look At Soil?". Trusting your senses in the garden goes a long way.

Compost and manure can both be purchased from your local garden shop. However, making your own compost is not hard and does not need to be messy. If you have a pickup, many dairy farmers or equestrian centers would be glad to give you manure (don't forget sheep and goat farms - smaller organic farms are best if they are willing to give away their manure). Each of these manure types are discussed below. Try to stick with natural (organic) fertilizers. After all, isn't this one of the reasons we grow our own vegetables, for fresh produce without pesticides and chemicals.

Home Composting:

Compost is one of the most valuable resources for beautifying your landscape, and it is virtually free. Vegetable scraps, egg shells, leaves, grass clippings, and the branches you trim are some of the things you can use to make compost. Finished compost is dark and has a pleasant smell. It is produced when organic matter, such as garden, lawn, and kitchen waste, is broken down by bacteria and fungi. 


Making your own compost is probably the simplest way to make high quality compost and save money. It's really not as complicated as you may think: There are many commercial composting bins and containers on the market that make it a clean, hassle-free process.

Compost can be made in either a pile or bin, depending on the amount of material for composting and the needs and size of your garden.

A compost pile should be a minumum of one cubic yard, sufficient to ensure a hot temperature. The pile may be enclosed using bricks or timber. Leave an access area or work space at the front of the pile for turning the compost and cover it with a lid or piece of carpet to retain heat and provide protection from rain.

A compost bin is often better for smaller gardens. Plastic bins, metal tumblers and plastic tumblers can be purchased from nurseries.

Alternatively, make one yourself using a 45 gallon drum or pieces of untreated timber.

Bins should be open at the top and bottom. The top needs a tight-fitting lid. The other end is placed in contact with the soil to allow earthworms to enter. These little gardeners speed the decaying process by loosening the compost and allowing air to enter and circulate. Avoid placing the bin or pile too close to houses. Consider placing it directly on level soil in a garden bed.

Two bins or piles allow material to accumulate in one while composting in the other. The pile should be protected from hot sun and heavy rain to prevent excess drying or moisture, which prevent effective composting.

Compost works best if you add a balanced mixture of rapidly decomposing "green" material (see below). and "brown" material, which decomposes slowly (see below). These can be added in any order.

Once you have a mixture of materials, cover with a layer of soil, add some water and a lid to keep the heat in and speed the rotting process.

Composting matter should feel damp, but if waterlogged it will smell, attract flies and be inefficient. Control the moisture level by adding absorbent materials such as sawdust, newspaper, straw or dry manure.

Turning the pile with a fork will speed decomposition. The more frequently the material is turned, the faster it will decompose. Care should be taken to make sure that all material is turned into the inner, hottest part of the pile where weed seeds and pathogens are destroyed. If the pile is turned regularly, the compost should be ready for use in a month or two. Your compost can sometimes be smelly when you turn it, so set up your compost away from your neighbours! The pile may be left unturned, but the process could take an extra six to twelve months.

Compost is ready to use when it has a crumbly appearance, an earthy smell and identifying what things were is difficult!

Key Elements of Composting:

Water - Keep the compost just damp. Too much water will ruin your compost.

Balance - Add a mix of green and brown materials to make a well balanced compost.

Air - Turn the pile over every few weeks or every 5 to 6 days if using a bin.

Size - A compost pile will mature quickest if it is at least one cubic yard.

Microorganisms - These help break down the compost material. They come from the soil or old compost you add and from the earth on which the compost pile is built.

The Best Mix in Compost:
All compostable materials are either carbon or nitrogen-based. Building a healthy compost pile is simple: maintain a working balance between these two.

Carbon - Referred to as browns, carbon-rich matter (peels, thin branches, stems, dried leaves, bits of wood, bark dust or sawdust, shredded brown paper bags, coffee filters, conifer needles, egg shells, hay, peat moss, wood ash) gives compost its light, fluffy body.

Nitrogen - Referred to as greens, nitrogen or protein-rich matter (food scraps, manures, leafy materials like lawn clippings and green leaves) provides raw materials for making enzymes.


Problems With Your Compost?
Getting the right mix of moisture and the right mix of ingredients in your compost may take a little practice, but most problems can usually be overcome.

Too Wet - Add sawdust or shredded newspaper to help absorb moisture, and turn regularly.

No Heat - Add a source of nitrogen, such as animal manure or blood and bone meal or vegetable scraps.

Dryness - Water lightly.

Fly Development - Fully enclose the compost. Make sure the compost is hot in the centre and turn regularly to ‘cook’ fly and cockroach eggs.

Too Hot - If the mixture goes grey and smokes, turn and spread it out to cool the compost down.

Strong Smell - All compost releases some smell when it is turned. Reduce smell by keeping the compost damp but not wet.

Do Not Add The Following To Your Compost:

• Any Type Of Plastic
• Foam
• Metal
• Weeds (personal recommendation)
• Pet Droppings
• Dead Vertebrate Animals
• Uncooked Meats
• Cooked Meats
• Diary Products (Except Egg Shells)

Important Note: Many communities have restrictions on composting and/or storage of manure. Check local regulations before your start. Where large compost piles may not be allowed, you may find the above noted compost bins are accepted.

Manure

Manure is a excellent amendment to any soil. Manure is a source of many nutrients including: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and many others. However, nitrogen is often the main nutrient of concern for most crops.

Type of Garden	Best Type of Manure	Best Time to Apply
Flower	cow, horse	early spring
Vegetable	chicken, cow, horse	fall, spring
Root Crops	chicken, cow, horse	fall, spring

Dairy Cow Manure: Dairy manure is the preferred manure for most gardeners. It is not as hot as other manures and more forgiving if accidentally applied when too fresh. It is preferred over horse and steer manure but may be harder to acquire. Though cow manure has lower nutrient levels than other manures, it is this that makes it safer to use in larger quantities. It should be aged like other manures.

Horse Manure: Horse manure is about half as rich as chicken manure, but richer in nitrogen than cow manure. It is considered a "hot" manure. Horse manure often contains a lot of weed seeds, it is best to compost this manure before use, or add to the garden in the fall.

Chicken Manure: Chicken manure is the richest animal manure. Chicken manure is considered "hot", it is best to compost this manure before use. Otherwise, it will burn any plants it comes in contact with.

Sheep & Goat Manure: Sheep or goat manure is another "hot" manure. It is somewhat dry and very rich. Manure from sheep and goats fed hay and grain will be more potent than manure from animals that live on pasture. It is best to compost this manure before use or add to the garden in the fall.

Rabbit Manure: Rabbit manure is even higher in nitrogen than some poultry manures and it also contains a large amount of phosphorus--important for flower and fruit formation.

Seaweed: (many gardeners refer to Seaweed as a manure) With beach access available, this is a fairly easy manure to obtain at no cost. Seaweed is an excellent source of calcium and potash. Prior to using seaweed though, wash it thoroughly to remove the salt. Dig it directly into the soil or compost it.
Manure Tea:
Manure tea can be used for periodic feedings as a fertilizer or very diluted and used every time you water. Do not allow undiluted manure tea to come into direct contact with foliage. To make manure tea, simply place a shovel or two of manure in a large container (5 gallon bucket) filled with water, and after a week or so, strain out the manure. To make the straining process a little easier, you can tie the manure in a burlap bag before placing it in the water (like a giant tea bag).
Green Manure:
Green manure is a crop that is grown then plowed into the soil or otherwise left to decompose for the purpose of soil improvement. These crops return more nutrients to the soil than they use to grow. Examples of cover crops used for green manure include soybeans, clover, rye, and others. Green manure does not mean raw manure.
IMPORTANT: Do not use cat, dog, pig or human feces (manure) in composts or gardens it can spread disease and parasites into the garden, and eventually you or your family members. Use of human and pig manure or feces is used in commercial agriculture, but has usually been processed prior to application to kill parasites and diseases (how effectively, we are not sure and would not use it). Never use fresh manure (hot), since it contains soluble nitrogen compounds and ammonia that can burn plants and interfere with seed germination. Manure that is well composted or has aged for at least six months is best - a year or more is even better but hard to find. When added to the compost pile, manure will speed the composting process.

If you use fresh manure(less than 60 days old) in the garden, there is a small risk that pathogens which cause disease may contaminate garden vegetables. The risk is greatest for root crops, like radishes and carrots, and leafy vegetables, such as lettuce, where the edible part touches the soil. Careful washing and/or peeling will remove most of the pathogens responsible for the disease. Thorough cooking is even more effective.

To reduce the risk of disease, we suggest these precautions:

• Apply manure at least 60 days before harvesting of any garden vegetables which will be eaten without cooking. If you apply manure within 60 days of harvest, use only very well aged aged or composted manure.
• Never apply fresh manure after the garden is planted.
• Thoroughly wash raw vegetables before eating.
• Do not use cat, dog or pig manure in gardens or compost piles, because some of the parasites which can be found in these manures may survive and remain infectious for people.

Common Fertilizers

Fertilizers quickly break down to provide specific nutritional needs to plants. Organics need time to be broken down into the simple chemical substances required by plants. Thus organic manures tend to be safer to use when feeding plants as they rarely tend to "burn" then. But if you have ever applied too much inorganic fertilizer to a plant you know the damage that it can do in a short amount of time because of the concentration of nutrients in one spot at one time. Always use inorganic fertilizers with care and read all the instructions.

Fish Fertilizer: This is a good fertilizer, but is extremely smelly. However, it is a good source of nitrogen and some phosphorous.

Ammonium Sulfate: A soluble salt which is an excellent source of Nitrogen. Use with care as it may promote an excess of green growth and make your plants weak, spindly and susceptible to disease.

Ammonium Nitrate: Useful to increase soil acidity.

Nitro-chalk: A mixture of Ammonium Nitrate and Limestone. Useful in neutralizing acid soils.

Calcium Cyanamide: A source of Nitrogen and helps to de-acidify the soil. It must be used carefully as it may kill young plants.

Rock Phosphate: A naturally occurring product that is not soluble in water. Useful for soils with a high degree of organic matter, but will not break down and be useful to plants in sandy or neutral soils -- needs acidic soils to be catalyzed. A little goes a long way.

Magnesium Phosphate: Useful in promoting chlorophyll production in plant leaves necessary for healthy plant growth.

Superphosphate: Partly soluble in water and quickly available for plant use.

Potassium: An essential element deficient in sandy soils.

Calcium: Another essential element for most plants. Also known as lime, it helps to neutralize the acidity of acidic soils and allows the release of plant nutrients that would otherwise be bound in the soil and unavailable to plants. Lime should be applied carefully as it may cause a deficiency of other elements in plants if used in large quantities. 




How to grow the vegetables which were chosen as the favourites of the graphics class:


Asparagus:


PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Asparagus officinalis
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Fertile, deep, well drained soil
pH RANGE: 6.5 - 6.7
MOISTURE/WATERING: Average; a flush of asparagus spears often follows a good rainfall
MATURE PLANT SIZE: 6 to 8 inches high
KNOWN PESTS: N/A
KNOWN DISEASES: Rust 

OVERVIEW:

Asparagus is a member of the lily family and it is not an easy vegetable to grow. Patience is a virtue with asparagus. It is just about impossible to grow from seed so I would advise you purchase 1-year-old asparagus crowns, which are the roots of the plant. These are planted in a trench with the roots spread out over mounded soil. The trench is gradually filled in as the plants grow.

It takes about four years for asparagus plants to mature enough for harvesting - if you start from seed. Prior to that asparagus plants should be allowed to grow and feed themselves.

PROPAGATION / SOWING:

Sow indoors 8 weeks before last frost, 1/4" deep at 25 degrees C (77 degrees F). Germination will occur in 10-14 days. Sow outdoors, 3 weeks before last frost, 1/4-1/2" deep and 1" apart. Thin or space asparagus plants to 18" apart in trenches 8-12" deep. As the asparagus seedlings grow, fill the trench back in.

COMPANION PLANTING:

Basil, calendula, parsley, tomato.

CARE & GROWING:

Choose a sunny location with a fertile, deep, well drained soil. Soil pH should be between 6.5-6.7. Asparagus is a heavy feeder and needs regular fertilizing with well rotted manure, compost or a well balanced synthetic fertilizer worked in the top surface of the soil. Use straw mulch to control weeds and hold moisture.

HARVESTING:

Asparagus plants from seeds will take 4 years before you can harvest spring spears. In early spring, cut or snap asparagus spears when they are 6-8" high, before the heads separate.

NOTES:

Growing strong healthy asparagus plants or resistant cultivars helps prevent the onset of Rust disease. 


Beetroot:


PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Beta vulgaris
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Well-drained, deep sandy loam
pH RANGE: 6.2 - 6.8
MOISTURE/WATERING: Average
MATURITY IN DAYS: 70 - 75
KNOWN PESTS: Spinach Leaf Miner
KNOWN DISEASES: Leaf Spots 

OVERVIEW:

No garden seems complete without beets. Beets are dark red and vigorous, beets have been a popular vegetable amongst gardeners for many years. Gardeners should sow beets early in the spring, or, for a second crop, after the hot summer weather is over.

Use the young, tender beet tops for fresh greens. Beets can be grated in salads, pickled, or baked and then skinned and served with fresh dill. Beets can be preserved by canning or freezing and they retain their taste and texture very well. To retain the color and nutrients in beets, don't cut the tip of the root and leave at least an inch of the top stem intact - this will also keep beets from "bleeding."

PROPAGATION / SOWING:

Sow beet seeds thinly 1/2-1" deep in rows spaced 8-12" apart. Soil temperature should be 18-24 degrees C (65-75 degrees F) for optimal germination. Thin beet seedlings 1" apart for greens and 3" apart for summer use of roots. Plant beets every two weeks, starting as early as soil can be worked until late June.

COMPANION PLANTING FOR BEETS:

Bush bean, cabbage family, corn, leek, lettuce, onion, radish.

CARE & GROWING OF BEETS:

Choose a full sun location. Beets require a light, well-drained, cool soil with a pH between 6.2 and 6.8. Compost or well-rotted manure along with pure wood ashes, as a supply of additional potassium, should be mixed well into the soil prior to planting. Applying Boron after 4-6 weeks of growth will prevent internal browning, particularly in dry seasons. Keep beets well-watered as drought will result in tough or woody beets.

HARVESTING:

Young and tender beet leaves can be used as greens. Dig or pull beet roots when 2-3" in diameter or desired size. 


Broccoli:


PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Brassica oleracea var. italica
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: light, dry, well-drained soil
pH RANGE: 6.0 - 6.8
MOISTURE/WATERING: Keep moist, not waterlogged
MATURITY IN DAYS: 65 -70
KNOWN PESTS: Cabbage worms and loopers
KNOWN DISEASES: Head rot and downy mildew 

OVERVIEW:

Broccoli is a rewarding vegetable to grow and is best planted in soil rich with organic matter. Broccoli seed should be sown early in spring so the heads mature before hot weather.

Broccoli is high in Vitamins A and C and is also considered to be a cancer-fighting food. For best flavor, cook broccoli only until tender/crips or use raw with dips or in salads. Broccoli freezes very well, maintaining its color, texture and taste.

PROPAGATION / SOWING:

Plant broccoli seeds 1/4 - 1/2" deep. Transplant or thin small broccoli plants to 15-18" apart in rows 32-36" apart. Broccoli transplants can be started in April for May planting. Transplant after 4-6 weeks. Use a starter fertilizer, soaking the root ball thoroughly prior to transplanting. Direct seed broccoli in late spring, as seedlings can tolerate a light frost. Broccoli can be direct seeded up until mid-late June for a continuous harvest. Soil temperature should be 21-26 degrees C (70-80 degrees F) for optimal germination in 4-7 days.

COMPANION PLANTING:

Bush bean, beet, carrot, celery, chard, cucumber, dill, lettuce, onion family, potato, spinach, tomato.

CARE & GROWING OF BROCCOLI:

Broccoli prefers full sun, but will tolerate part shade. Prepare a rich, loose soil that holds moisture well and has a pH level of 6.0-6.5. Broccoli is a heavy feeder and will also benefit from applications of Boron, calcium and magnesium, particularly during the early stages of growth. Hollow stem in broccoli is related to boron deficiency.

HARVESTING BROCCOLI:

Harvest when the broccoli buds of the head are firm and tight, cutting 5 to 10 inches down on the stalk. This will promote the growth of side shoots which will provide an abundance of smaller broccoli heads over a long period.

BROCCOLI PESTS & DISEASES:

Broccoli can and often does get attacked by Cabbage worms and loopers (white and yellow butterflies) which can be controlled using BTK, Rotenone or Pyrethrum (however, inspecting your broccoli plants daily and simply picking off these worms and loopers is very effective - and natural). Use row covers to block out all insects including root maggots, aphids and Diamondback moths. Maintaining a soil pH of 6.8 and higher will discourage club root. Fungal and bacteria diseases such as head rot and downy mildew can be prevented by allowing good air circulation and avoiding a mid August maturity when the air humidity is higher. Strong healthy broccoli plants growing in an organically rich soil will be better able to fight disease. 

Carrots:

PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Daucus carota var. sativus
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Medium rich, well-drained, deep sandy loam
pH RANGE: 6.5
MOISTURE/WATERING: Keep moist, not waterlogged
MATURITY IN DAYS: 65 - 85
KNOWN PESTS: Root maggots/Rust Flies
KNOWN DISEASES: Aster Yellows

OVERVIEW:

No garden should be without carrots. Sow carrot seeds early in spring as soon as the ground is workable. Carrot seeds need to be kept evenly moist as they are slow to germinate, sometimes taking several weeks.

Carrots have their best flavour when they are deeply colored and fully matured. Harvesting doesn't have to be done all at once, as carrots do very well when left in the ground. Carrots are very high in vitamin A and good raw or cooked.

PROPAGATION / SOWING OF CARROTS:

Sow carrot seeds ¼-½“ deep. Carrots seed takes 14-21 days to germinate. Planting a few radish seeds helps to loosen the soil and mark the rows for slow emerging carrot seeds. Thin carrot plants to at least 1” apart in rows spaced 18-24” apart. Sow carrots as soon as ground can be worked. Even moisture and soil temperature, 18-24°C (65-75°F) is essential for good carrot germination.

COMPANION PLANTING OF CARROTS:

Bean, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, chive, leaf lettuce, leek, onion, pea, pepper, radish, tomato.

CARE & GROWING OF CARROTS:

Carrots are best grown in full sun but will tolerate light shading. Choose deeply-worked, stone free soil with a pH of 6.5. Chantenay type carrots are suitable for shallow or heavy soils. Raised beds or rows are recommended. Carrots are light to moderate feeders. Avoid using fresh animal and green manures at the time of planting. Moisture is required for good carrot root formation.

HARVESTING OF CARROTS:

Carrots can be harvested throughout their growth cycle. If you thin your carrots out in stages, you will enjoy an abundance of baby carrots that are great in salads. 

Courgette:

(Squash and Zucchini)

PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Cucurbita pepo - Summer | Cucurbita spp. - Winter
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Medium-rich, well-drained soil
pH RANGE: 5.5 - 6.5
MOISTURE/WATERING: Average
MATURITY IN DAYS: 50 - 60 from transplant
KNOWN PESTS: Striped and spotted cucumber beetles
KNOWN DISEASES: Powdery mildew

OVERVIEW:

Squash plants, which includes zucchini, are best known for the ease at which they can be grown, making any novice gardener look like a pro. Squash prefer soil with lots of organic matter such as aged manure or compost. Harvest squash and zucchini while they are young and still shiny, and before their seeds are well-developed. The many varieties of squash are used in everything from appetizers to desserts. Squash are excellent sauteed or steamed and when used in casseroles, breads or cakes. 

PROPAGATION / SOWING OF SQUASH:

Plant squash after all danger of frost has past or when the soil has warmed to 21-27°C (70-80°F) as seed will not germinate in cool soil. For early plantings, use floating row covers to raise soil temperature, increase early growth and protect tender plants from wind injury. Sow summer squash 1” deep, 6” apart, thinning to 12” apart in rows 36-48” apart. Sow winter or vining squash similarly, using a spacing of 24-36” between plants with 48-60” row spacing. 

COMPANION PLANTING OF SQUASH:

Squash do well with celery, corn, onion, radish. 

CARE & GROWING OF SQUASH:

Squash prefer full sun and a soil pH of 5.5-6.5. Squash are moderate feeders; mix plenty of organic matter into soil as squash prefers a rich loamy soil of good fertility and moisture retention. Even and sufficient soil moisture is essential. Squash benefits from mild feedings with a fertilizer high in phosphorous to initiate fruit formation. 

HARVESTING OF SQUASH:

Harvest summer squash when they are 4-8” long and when their skin is still shiny. Winter squash can be cut later in the summer or early fall before frost, or when the skin is hard enough so that you can not cut it with your finger nail. Simply cut from the vine leaving 4-6” of stem attached to the fruit. Store in a cool, dry area.  

Cucumber:

PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Cucumis sativus
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Well-drained, moderate-high organic matter
pH RANGE: 5.5 - 7.0
MOISTURE/WATERING: Keep moist, not waterlogged; mulch helps maintain moisture
MATURITY IN DAYS: 55 - 65 after transplant
KNOWN PESTS: Striped or spotted cucumber beetles
KNOWN DISEASES: Powdery Mildew, bacterial wilt

OVERVIEW:

Cucumbers are best grown grouped into 3 or 4 plants in a single hill. If planted in rich soil, cucumbers will grow very quickly. Unless you plan on eating lots of cucumbers, plant sparingly as one hill will produce well. If space is limited select a cucumber variety that will climb well and use a trellis. 

Pick cucumbers while young and tender to avoid any bitterness. Cucumbers are used mainly in salads and many varieties of pickles. 

PROPAGATION / SOWING OF CUCUMBERS:

Sow cucumbers indoors 3-4 weeks prior to last frost or direct seed after all risk of frost. For indoor planting use 2 inch square jiffy strip pots and plant 1-2 seeds per square; thin to ensure one cucumber plant per pot. Plant cucumber seeds ½-1” deep, transplant or space plants 6” apart in rows 4-6” apart. Cucumber Plants are tender, so soil should be warm, 18-24°C (65-75°F) for germination to begin. If growing on a trellis, space plants 18” apart. Plant 3 to 4 cucumber plants per hill for effective pollination. 

COMPANION PLANTING OF CUCUMBERS:

Bush bean, cabbage family, corn, dill, eggplant, lettuce, radish, pea, tomato are all good companions for cucumbers. 

CARE & GROWING OF CUCUMBERS:

Cucumbers require full sun. As they are heavy feeders, an application of compost or well rotted manure worked into the planting area will help. Regular applications of a complete soluble fertilizer during the growing season is beneficial. Cucumber plants should not be allowed to wilt. Make sure cucumbers are well watered before transplanting. Spread a mulch around plants before they start to vine, to cut down on weeds and conserve moisture. The mulch will also help to keep the fruit clean. 

HARVESTING OF CUCUMBERS:

Pick slicing cucumbers when they reach 6-8” long; pickling cucumbers at 3-5”. Keep mature cucumbers picked off the vines to encourage a longer, abundant yield. Harvest cucumbers for pickling early in the morning. 

Lettuce:

(Mesclun Lettuce)

PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Lactuca sativa
LIGHT: Full Sun in spring/fall, partial shade in summer
SOIL TYPE: Rich, well-drained, loose loam.
pH RANGE: 6.2 - 6.8
MOISTURE/WATERING: Keep moist, not waterlogged, frequent short watering is best
MATURITY IN DAYS: 45 - 55
KNOWN PESTS: slugs, aphids, flea beetles and leaf hoppers
KNOWN DISEASES: N/A

OVERVIEW:

This lettuce is easy to grow, as seeds germinate in cool weather, even as low as 40° F. Mesclun mixed lettuce grows well indoors using growlights or in a greenhouse, or season extenders such as a cold frame. The lettuce seeds sprout in about a week, although some of the greens are bit slower so you may want to start greens first. 

Since lettuce are shallow-rooted, the bed will need to be kept moist (but not saturated). Rapid growth is the main requirement for tasty, tender lettuce greens; a constant supply of soil moisture is very important. Letting the soil dry out will lower quality and flavour of lettuce. 

PROPAGATION / SOWING OF MESCLUN LETTUCE:

Direct seed in early spring, as seed will germinate between 40-80°F. Sowing thinly ¼” and 1” apart.

LETTUCE SPACING:

Leaf lettuce types - 6” apart with 12” rows; Iceberg lettuce - 12” apart with 18” row spacing; Romaine lettuce - 8-10” apart with 12-16” rows Butterhead/Batavia lettuce - 10-12” apart with 12” row spacing. Start lettuce transplants indoors 4-6 weeks before last frost date for transplants. Make succession plantings every 1-2 weeks to ensure a constant harvest. 

COMPANION PLANTING FOR MESCLUN LETTUCE:

Most vegetables. Carrot, Garlic, Onion and Radish make the best companions. 

CARE & GROWING MESCLUN LETTUCE:

Choose an area with full sun to partial shade and a soil pH of 6.2-6.8. Lettuce is a heavy feeder and prefers a rich, well cultivated soil with good drainage. Some success can be expected even in poor soils using the loose-leaf types of lettuce. Add plenty of compost or well rotted manure prior to planting. Lettuce benefits from regular feedings with a nitrogen rich fertilizer. Mulching is useful to keep soil cool and reduce weeds around lettuce plants. 

HARVESTING MESCLUN LETTUCE:

Harvest when lettuce plants are 3-4" tall. Simply cut off the leaves above the soil. Under proper conditions the lettuce will regrow and provide a second or even third harvest.  

(Leaf Lettuce)

PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Lactuca sativa
LIGHT: Full Sun in spring/fall, partial shade in summer
SOIL TYPE: Rich, well-drained, loose loam.
pH RANGE: 6.2 - 6.8
MOISTURE/WATERING: Keep moist, not waterlogged, frequent short watering is best
MATURITY IN DAYS: 45 - 55
KNOWN PESTS: slugs, aphids, plant bugs and leaf hoppers
KNOWN DISEASES: N/A

OVERVIEW:

Leaf and Romaine Lettuce grows best in a well-worked soil that is not to wet. This can sometimes be difficult to achieve when the ground is very moist in the early part of the season. Lettuce seed won't germinate when soil and air are hot, so a good way to start would be starting lettuce in hot beds and then transplanted outside.

Use these lettuce thinnings in the first spring salad. Successive plantings will ensure lettuce through the entire season. Be sure to keep lettuce bed evenly moist and harvest regularly to keep lettuce plants from bolting and becoming bitter.

PROPAGATION / SOWING OF LEAF LETTUCE:

Direct seed head lettuce in early spring, as seed will germinate between 40-80°F. Sowing thinly ¼” and 1” apart.

LETTUCE SPACING:

Leaf lettuce types - 6” apart with 12” rows; Iceberg lettuce - 12” apart with 18” row spacing; Romaine lettuce - 8-10” apart with 12-16” rows Butterhead/Batavia lettuce - 10-12” apart with 12” row spacing. Start lettuce transplants indoors 4-6 weeks before last frost date for transplants. Make succession plantings every 1-2 weeks to ensure a constant harvest.

COMPANION PLANTING FOR LEAF LETTUCE:

Head Lettuce does well with most vegetables, carrot, garlic, onion and radish make the best companions.

CARE & GROWING LEAF LETTUCE:

Choose an area with full sun to partial shade and a soil pH of 6.2-6.8. Lettuce is a heavy feeder and prefers a rich, well cultivated soil with good drainage. Some success can be expected even in poor soils using the loose-leaf lettuce types. Add plenty of compost or well rotted manure prior to planting lettuce. lettuce benefits from regular feedings with a nitrogen rich fertilizer. Mulching is useful to keep soil cool and reduce weeds.

HARVESTING LEAF LETTUCE:

Harvest lettuce early in the morning after dew is evaporated. Looseleaf types can be picked as soon as leaves are large enough to eat. 

(Head Lettuce)

PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Lactuca sativa
LIGHT: Full Sun in spring/fall, partial shade in summer
SOIL TYPE: Rich, well-drained, loose loam.
pH RANGE: 6.0 - 7.0
MOISTURE/WATERING: Keep moist, not waterlogged, frequent short watering is best
MATURITY IN DAYS: 45 - 55
KNOWN PESTS: slugs, aphids, plant bugs and leaf hoppers
KNOWN DISEASES: N/A

OVERVIEW:

Growing head lettuce requires rich soil, lots of sunlight and lots of water. Head lettuce do best in cooler weather. The plants need temperatures around 55°F to 60°F during the growing season, this means starting plants early indoors.

Start seedlings indoors in late winter, six to eight weeks before the last expected spring frost. Before transplanting, harden the head lettuce plants off to get them ready for outdoor living. Place lettuce in a sheltered place outside for a few hours a day, increasing the time until they're out there all day. Gardeners in mild climates can sow seeds directly in the garden.

PROPAGATION / SOWING OF HEAD LETTUCE:

Direct seed head lettuce in early spring, as seed will germinate between 40-80°F. Sowing thinly ¼” and 1” apart.

LETTUCE SPACING:

Leaf lettuce types - 6” apart with 12” rows; Iceberg lettuce - 12” apart with 18” row spacing; Romaine lettuce - 8-10” apart with 12-16” rows Butterhead/Batavia lettuce - 10-12” apart with 12” row spacing. Start lettuce transplants indoors 4-6 weeks before last frost date for transplants. Make succession plantings every 1-2 weeks to ensure a constant harvest.

COMPANION PLANTING FOR HEAD LETTUCE:

Head Lettuce does well with most vegetables, carrot, garlic, onion and radish make the best companions.

CARE & GROWING HEAD LETTUCE:

Choose an area with full sun to partial shade and a soil pH of 6.2-6.8. Lettuce is a heavy feeder and prefers a rich, well cultivated soil with good drainage. Some success can be expected even in poor soils using the loose-leaf lettuce types. Add plenty of compost or well rotted manure prior to planting lettuce. lettuce benefits from regular feedings with a nitrogen rich fertilizer. Mulching is useful to keep soil cool and reduce weeds.

HARVESTING:

Harvest lettuce early in the morning after dew is evaporated. Looseleaf types can be picked as soon as leaves are large enough to eat. Harvest head lettuce types when they are firm and well wrapped. 

Parsnips:

PLANT TYPE: Annual
SCIENTIFIC NAME: Pastinaca sativa
LIGHT: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Rich, well-drained, with organic matter
pH RANGE: 6.5
MOISTURE/WATERING: Keep moist, not waterlogged
MATURITY IN DAYS: Up to 150 Days
KNOWN PESTS: Root maggot
KNOWN DISEASES: N/A

OVERVIEW:

Parsnips have a sweet nutty flavour. Fresh parsnip will have a soft texture when cooked, but an old parsnip will be fibrous and bitter. The whiter parsnips tend to be the most tender, and should be firm like carrots. 

Parsnips are a good source of fiber, folate, magnesium, potassium, Vitamins C and E, calcium, iron, thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, and B6. Parsnips colour is a clue to the fact that it does not contain any beta carotene. Parsnip can be also be cooked like carrots, but overcooking can turn them to mush. 

PROPAGATION / SOWING:

Parsnip seed does not keep well from year to year; use only fresh seed. Sow parsnip as early as ground can be worked. Sow seed ½” deep in rows 18-24” apart. Thin to 3 inches apart. Adequate moisture and a cool soil temperature of 15-18°C (60-65°F) is essential for good germination with parsnip, which may take up to 21 days. 

COMPANION PLANTING:

Parsnip do well with Bush bean, garlic, onion, pea, pepper, potato, radish. 

CARE & GROWING:

Parsnip enjoy full sun with a soil pH of 6.5. Requires a rich, deeply cultivated soil with plenty of organic matter, incorporate compost or well rotted manure prior to planting. 

HARVESTING:

Harvest parsnips any time once roots are adequately sized. Parsnips are tender and flavourful in the fall. A few light frosts will improve the flavour. Parsnips may also be mulched and left in ground over winter and dug as the ground thaws.